Replica Vs Replica


by DTIME International on 20 September 2018

Hi guys, welcome back to our blog section again...

 

Today we will do a super quick comparison on Case, Dial and Movement looks of one of the most demandable Patek Philippe replica, the Aquanaut. Recently there are new factory try to make a good replica of this Aquanaut model which are P Factory and KM Factory. ZF is actually on making process and I will compare later on after they formally release. 

The main spot of this model are : The dial pattern, color gradation, movement looks, and thickness. Most of the factory have around 10mm thickness while genuine is 8.5 mm. Suddenly one of the factory called KM Factory (KMF) just made a good breakthru on the movemen thickness. They are able to modified Miyota movement to be as thin as Calibre 324 Patek Philippe. Their result is around 8.4mm thickness which is extra ordinary.

Besides the thickness, we need to look at other part of the case, movement and dial. Let's compare which one is better between KMF and PF :

 

THE CASE & THICKNESS

A : The thickness (from crystal to caseback) of genuine and KMF is very close. While PF still have thicker case compare to genuine which is around 10mm. KMF is only around 8.4mm

B : However the case height if you can see on above picture, PF is actually closer compare to KMF. KMF is thinner as total case height, but thicker on middle case height (B Mark)

C : Crown guard width of KMF is very close to genuine. PF still too wide. Also the shape of the crown guard is better on KMF compare to PF

D : KMF also have better upper case height compare to PF

E : Both KM and PF have bigger crown compare to genuine. But KMF even bigger. Maybe the reason is to make the setting activity easier, because there is so hard to do setting on small crown

F : The slope of the lug is better on KMF compare to PF

 

 

THE MOVEMENT LOOK

A : PF is better and closer to genuine compare to KMF

B : Patek gold engraves on the movement is better on PF compare to KMF. But still smaller compare to genuine. KMF engraves is way too small

C : The movement of PF is based A.2824 and KMF is Miyota 9015. Clearly KMF have smaller size of movement compare to PF. You can see the gap between movement edge and the case is bigger on KMF (C mark)

 

THE DIAL DETAILS

A : Date fond is bigger on KMF compare ti PF. But still need to be bigger compare to genuine

B : Swiss Made is there at 6 o'clock one KMF, none on PF

C : Patek Philip logo on dial is better on PF. KMF dial logo still to high, seems the font strached down.

Dial details is about the same between KMF and PF, but the black grey gradient is better on KMF. Hour marker have no big issue, both are quite good compare to genuine.

 

CONCLUSION

  • Case thickness overall win by KMF
  • Dial details overall win by KMF
  • Movement details overall win by PF

 

 

IF YOU LOOKING FOR AQUANAUT MADE BY P FACTORY, BUY NOW HERE !

IF YOU LOOKING FOR AQUANAUT MADE BY KM FACTORY, BUY NOW HERE !



by DTIME International on 07 August 2018

Hi guys, welcome back to our blog section....

 

There are so many controversy going on in replica forum regarding this model. The most demandable Rolex replica model of all time, when everybody keep updating and comparing this model between each factory compare to genuine. This model is Rolex Submariner 116610LN. Many replica factories are making this model and keepig up among other to grab market attention. 

Among those factories, Noob is most probably the most famous one. But since ARF start rules the market with perfect build Rolex models, as well as GM Factory shocked the market when Noob is on hibernating and happy with their V7 version. GMF is very new in the market, but suddenly grab the attention because they are the first factory that make Submariner armed with 904L material instead of 316L, and in fact, GMF has been on the top of our selling while noob was very slow to release their new version.

Finally noob fullfil the market demand by releasing V8 with 904L material and as usual with SA.3135 movement (upgraded version of stability). The famous Noob never find hard to be on top again, but many people keep questioning us what are the different between Noob V8, ARF and GMF. We put ARF aside for our next review, now we gonna compare between Noob V8 and GMF which both armed with 904L steel and SA.3135. Let's start see them in details !

 

DIAL AND BEZEL DETAILS

 

Let see the genuine pictures before we see the replica pictures :

Here we go !

  • Noob well known as the best dial on replica. In fact, it is. The detail that noob made is very close to genuine, but nothing wrong with GMF because they are refer to different year of submariner production on 116610.
  • The other thing is the marker silver frame on noob is thick enough compare to GMF, and it's how it should be on genuine.

Noob date is clearly better compare to GMF. Date center problem still happening on noob production, but the font style and thickness is close enough to genuine. GMF date is way to thick compare to genuine.

Very nice bezel marker details. Deep and neat engravings on both factories. But the color still too dark on both factories compare to genuine. It need to be bright silver platinum color. 

Pearl frame on noob is better, a bit thicker and it is very close to genuine.

 

 

CASE AND BRACELET

Both are making perfect thickness, slightly different but both are good and almost exactly the same as genuine on this part

I have no issue on this part. Both are good on making crown logo detail. Both crown teeth are nice to handle.

Noob had SEL fitment issue on V7, but as the picture above, they improved this part on this new version. Nice fitment, and there is no significant gap on this.

 

Noob V8 is slightly better on this part. But i am sure this is not something significant to talk about since both almost have no differences.

 

 

MOVEMENT

I can clearly see that noob make some improvements on movement finishes. All textures and engravings are smooth enough, as well as the lettering on the movement. 

  • 3135 yellow gold color is match with genuine while GMF made it more rose gold on this.
  • Noob movement font style on 3135 and other letters is better compare to GMF
  • The depth of letter engravings is almost the same between those 2 factories
  • The only significant different is on the movement serial number is engraved on GMF movement, but not on Noob v8 movement.

 

Overall I will say Noob is better on this build compare to GMF. So if you have a little confusion to choose between these 2 factories, there is no doubt to go for Noob V8 instead of GMF. Please remember that both are with SA.3135 movement which still have some reliability issue compare to general movement like 2824 or 2836. Luckily, noob making this options too, they have 2836 option, even they have 316L steel option to reduce the prices.

How good Noob compare to ARF? wait for our next blog to discuss about this. Keep reading !

 

GET YOUR BEST NOOB SUBMARINER ONLY IN OUR WEBSITE

 



by DTIME International on 01 June 2018

Hi guys, welcome back to our blog section...

 

There are so many people confuse regarding which is the best Submariner replica? Because there are 3 major player keep up to beat each other on perfection., which is Noob V8s, ARF, and GMF.  There are general strength between those 3 factories :

  • Noob V8s : Generally better compare to previous version (V7), and now they are releasing 904L stainless steel material instead of 316L stainless steel material. SA.3135 and A.2836 movement options is available to choose. Noob is the most famous factory among other factory on making Submariner model. Besides, they have some upgrades as I mentioned HERE
  • AR Factory (ARF) : Known as the best bezel details on their first version. ARF now on the list of the best Rolex maker. Submariner, Sea Dweller and Daytona are their flagship products.
  • GM Factory (GMF) : Very new entering the replica market after ARF. Suddenly shocked the market by perfect build of 904L material with better SA.3135 movement details. Right now, this factory is only have Submariner 116610 model of Rolex. 

 

So, which one is better ?

Well first, I am going to be honest that physical apperance and build perfection is number one for me. Movement perfection will be number two. So I try to compare the face / dial of those 3 factories with genuine Submariner 116610 LN. Let's compare...

 

GENUINE VS GM FACTORY

  • I have no complain of the dial details. All logo and lettering are perfecly replicated. The gap between "=" and "300m" need to be wider but it's something that i can complain about.
  • All hour marker seems to be no issue. The dimension is correct, but the marker frame need to be little bit bold.
  • Bezle marker is good enough. Very deep engravings, correct font style and dimension. The thickness of bezel font should be a little bit thicker, and the marker color need to be brighter a little bit. 
  • The pearl frame is too thick compare to genuine
  • The bezel shine is nice as genuine.

 

GENUINE VS ARF

  • I have no complain of the dial details. All logo and lettering are perfecly replicated. ARF on this 904L material version is replicating newest dial, not as previous dial. You can see the "f" on "1000ft is long, and the "M" on submariner have short middle leg. This is not a mistakes, because there is this kind of dial details on genuine.
  • All hour marker seems to be no issue. The dimension is correct, and the marker frame thickness is very good, better than GMF.
  • Again, ARF clearly the best on making bezel details, and still the best until now. Very deep engravings, correct font style, correct dimension, correct thickness, and most importantly, the marker color is just match with genuine. The platinum color is just perfect.
  • The pearl frame is perfect, very close to genuine compare to the other 2 factories.
  • The bezel shine is nice as genuine.

 

 

GENUINE VS NOOB V8S (904L VERSION)

  • I have no complain of the dial details. All logo and lettering are perfecly replicated. NOOB V8 on this 904L material version is replicating newest dial, not as previous dial. You can see the "f" on "1000ft is long, and the "M" on submariner have short middle leg. This is not a mistakes, because there is this kind of dial details on genuine.
  • The hour marker frame is too thick from what i can see
  • Clearly noob upgrading the bezel marker. They make it very deep and brighter color compare to previous version. This is good upgrade, but I think the bezel number thickness is too thin compare to genuine.
  • The pearl frame is too thick compare to genuine
  • The bezel shine is nice as genuine.

 

DATE WHEEL AND CYCLOPS

This part has been the issue of some Submariner replica. Let's compare those 3 factory date wheel with genuine :

  • ARF is the best from what I can see. Very neat font, correct font style, and perfect thickness.
  • Noob is good as well, but on certain date series, they are not center and not as neat as ARF made (maybe this is not happen to every build)
  • GMF have very neat font, but i can see some of the number are a little bit thicker.

 

 

CONCLUSION

  • If you looking for physical perfection of Submariner replica, ARF is the best option. Unfortunately you won't have SA.3135 option on ARF, they stay on reliability of 2836 movement to suppor their physical perfection. They have no SA.3135 movement option.
  • If you looking for perfect movement with good looking movement, NOOB V8 and GMF is about the same. I will say GMF is just like Noob V8. Better engravings of GMF SA.3135 is their strenght as well.

 

GRAB THE BEST SUBMARINER 116610 LN  FROM NOOB V8, ARF, AND GMF NOW !



by DTIME International on 23 May 2018

Hi guys, Welcome back to our blog secton...

It is very confusing when every factory keeping up to make exactly the same models. There are so many small differences between those buld. This is what happen to replica of Rolex Submariner 116610 black and green. There are many factories making these 2 models ; Noob, GMF, ARF, VRF, URF, JF etc.

Noob as the mose famous factory of this model is a bit too slow to keep up with other factories after their last version, V7. Finally they release the newest version which is V8. There are some seller called it V8, V8S, or even V9, in fact those are the same piece. There are some options of V8 from noob :

  • With 904L steel material, SA.3135 movement
  • With 904L steel material, A.2836 movement. And
  • With 316L steel material, A.2836 movement.

Unfortunately, those with 904L material are limitely produced, need to wait so long to get that model with 904L steel material. Instead, they produced more on 316L material with 2836 movement. Physically all of those V8 version are the same, the differents are on steel material, and movement. Finally we got chance to compare what is physical upgrades on V8 compare tto V7 previously. Let's see....

 

DIAL AND BEZEL UPGRADES

  • Bezel marker color of Submariner 116610 LN and LV (Black and green) has been an issue since the beginning of its production. That genuine bezel marker is bright platinum color, while what noob made is more into grey (darker) on V7. On V8 they are clearly upgrade this part, the color of bezel marker now is brighter and closer to genuine. However, i still see that it is still in "grey" color instead of platinum color. AR factory still the best on this part, but I appreciate what noob done to upgrade this quite major flaw.
  • On 116610 LV (green) i saw significant upgrade. They produces new green bezel insert with brighter color, and it is what it has to be on genuine. From my experience, the green color is not that match with genuine, i still see VRF version is better, but i appreciate this upgrade from noob.
  • They produce new ceramic bezel insert with better ceramic shine instead of kinda dull color on the V7 previously
  • They claimed that the numeral shape on the bezel is upgraded. As far as i can see, it is not significant change, but i need to compare how consistent they are on making every piece of this model
  • There is no changes on the dial detail. In fact, there is no issue of the dial details since the begining. All good.

 

 

THE CASE AND CROWN UPGRADES

  • They claimed that they produced new case which have better shape on V8 compare to V7. Yes it is, the curved shape of the case is better on V8 compare to V7, and it is closer to genuine case.
  • The crown shape and details si not significantly upgraded as they claimed, but it is upgraded in fact, feel better when you hold and turn it. 
  • The most significant upgrade from what I can see is on the bezel teeth. V8 bezel teeth brushed finish is way closer to genuine, more shiny and when you see from different angle, the visual effect is just like genuine.
  • As addition on the bezel marker upgrade, the depth of the marker is deeper on V8 compare to V7. You can see this from the side on above pictures.

 

 

THE BRACELET AND SEL UPGRADES

  • Since V8 have better curved shape of the case, the endlink of the bracelet have the same height to the case, while on V7 have height gap at the edge of the lug-end part. However, I still see that the sel is not significantly upgraded, it's the same fitment as the V7. On this part, i still see ARF made it better compare to noob
  • I didn't see significant upgrade on the caseback cover. But if you see it closer, noob V8 have sloper caseback cover which created thinner case affect 

V8 have good upgarde on this part. The clasp is very neat and have perfect vitment when you close it as you can see on above picture. There is no gap as oftenly found on V7 clasp.

 

CONCLUSION

  • From the upgrades list above, it is clearly seen that V8 is worth to buy.
  • V8 with 904L steel will have the same physical upgrades as above, the only different is the material of the case and bracelet.
  • 316L steel version only available with A.2836 mvoement, not SA.3135 movement yet. If you want SA.3135 movement you need to get 904L version which have that option. But take it as advantage, since 2836 noob is decorated to be close to genuine calibre 3135, and more reliable movement compare to SA3135 movement.

 

GRAB THIS UPGRADE VERSION OF NOOB SUBMARINER HERE



by DTIME International on 31 December 2017

Hi Guys, Welcome back to our blog section....

I am preparing for my New year eve 2018 celebration, but fortunately I still have spare time to make a quick review regarding these Rolex Daytona Vintage Paul Newman series. I want to share how good the replica of this models made by replica factories. The reason why I do this mostly because I love these vintage series, those are very iconic timepieces. In fact, after market genuine Paul newman series is beyond the jokes, very expensive. 

I have 4 of them on hand, those are on modification progress to become a real vintage. Those pieces are : 6239, 6240, and 6263 (black and RCO dial). Here are some points as my first impression of these models :

  • The case is quite nice, but need to re-shape some sharp edges on the lug-end. 
  • The dial is too clean, since these models are from around 1969, it is needed to be real vintage
  • The case obviously no scratch, and I need to make some natural scratches to get vintage looks
  • The bracelet is not good, the gap between end link and the first link is too wide. The bracelet feels cheap, really not recommend to have. You better swap with better bracelet, or customs vintage straps.
  • The movement is quite good by using Seagull ST.19 active chronograph. You need to be careful to pick these models, because there are some factories build it with automatic with rotor, instead of manual winding. And the chronograph is not working 100% (Sub dial 6 o'clock always following the hour hands movement). With ST.19, it is perfect, all the chronograph are working as it should be. Eventhough the power reserve is not really good, but those are the best grade among others available in the market.

Lets start see them closely 

 

THE CASE AND DIAL

The dial details from those 3 models above are quite impressive. The sub dial texture are very details, the logo and all markers and printng are well made, very neat. The only thing that you need to concern is that you need to make these more vintage looks, because those are old (1969), should be patinated and some scrathces on the dial. What people usually do is modify the dial to be patinated and vintagized by the watch smith (modder). But if you like clean watches, those are the best already.

 For that price range, I think these build is quite details, they put all necessary details as they should be. The crown logo is nice embossed, and the case serial, and caseback serial. I believe they are not very close to genuine, but I will say fine with what they make.

 

THE DIMENSION AND WEIGHT

The thickness include the plexi dome is 15.2 mm, very acceptable as the gen is around 15mm as well. I am not sure about the weight, but I am sure it will be very close as approximate weight of genuine is 110 grams. The case diameter is 37mm exactly.

 

THE BRACELET

Don't get me wrong, the looks is very nice. But as I said before, that the material of the bracelet is bad. You will feel cheap while you hold it. The gap between the end-link and the first link is too wide. I won't recommend to keep the bracelet. You better swap it with better bracelet or else, you can try what I did with vintage customized strap as below picture :

 

 

THE MOVEMENT

Those I got are with Seagull movement ST.19 active chronograph. The looks is very nice as you can see, and those are very details build. Let's see it closer :

Fully manual wind movement, with superb nice details on movement structure and engravings. Some people stay with this movement, but some people change with genuine valjoux 23 even the price is very expensive due to the fact that this ST 19 doesn't have very good power reserve. Most probably only 36 hours after full wind.

Be careful on choosing these daytona vintage series, because there are some factory build these model with bad movement (automatic) like this :

With that movement, the chronograph is not working 100%. The sub dial at 6 o'clock will always following the hour hand. Not running independently. You can see the movement different as below picture :

From the build and feature, those 2 movements are totally different. So you need to careful on choosing these vintage models, especially on movement.

 

THE VIDEO

 

 

CONCLUSION

  • Overall its not bad to have factory made, as long as you can accept some flaws I mention. For the price range of $300, those are price worthy. 
  • If you want to modify the looks to be more vintage with correct shape, dial details etc. You can modify with us. See some of our build HERE
  • The bracelet is not good, you can change with better bracelet, or you can also create customs straps as listed HERE
  • The movement is quite ok, but if you need to replace with better one, you can contact us on email

 

GRAB THESE DAYTONA PAUL NEWMAN SERIES IN OUR WEBSITE HERE

 

Happy New Year 2018.....



by DTIME International on 24 December 2017

Hi guys, welcome back to our blog section...

Recently there is new factory produce some Rolex hot series like submariner and sea dweller, the factory name is VR Factory (VRF). As a new factory VRF need to have something better compare to existing models from other factory especially Noob as its known as Rolex master, J Factory,  and AR factory as its known as high quality material build. What makes me courious about VRF is on 116610LV green ceramic "hulk", because many people said that the bezel green color is made from japan ceramic with special coloring process, and the green color is better compare to noob or JF. 

Finally i have both VRF and Noob V7 on hand, and this is a good chance for me to compare which one is closer to genuine. I took some genuine pictures from ablogtowatch and other source to compare. Lets start !

 

BEZEL COLOR AND DETAILS

This is the hardest part to compare because I don't know how to call the green color on the genuine, it's produce different color from different angle and light source. The result is sometimes I see these 2 factory have the same green color on some angle, but different on other angle. Lets see below pictures :

I try to get the same exact angle to see the green color differences. Even though those are very close, I still spot the different :

  • The green bezel color on VRF is the closest one to genuine compare to noob v7, but still too dark
  • Noob V7 green bezel color is too pale / dull.
  • There is no issue on dial color, both VRF and Noob have correct dial color. On certain angle its turn to black, but from side angle with good light it will produce sunburst effect on the dial.

After i put VRF and Noob V7 side by side, here is the result :

From above pictures, here are some points from my closer inspection :

  • Bezel engravings on VRF is thicker than noob V7. Which one is correct compare to gen? VRF is closer but still slightly thicker compare to genuine. Noob V7 is too thin.
  • Bezel engraivings color on VRF is silver same as noob, but I have to say VRF silver is brighter compare to noob and actually closer to genuine. Noob silver marker is a little bit too dark.
  • Both VRF and noob V7 have deep bezel engravings which is good.

 

 

DIAL DETAILS

Before I go further, I have to clarify that VRF is replicating old dial model (below 2010), while Noob is replicating the newest production of this model. 

I can see VRF is quite good on making printed logo and letter on the dial. Even though slightly bolder on the crown logo, i will still say those are very neat. The gap between "=" and "300" need to be a little bit wider, but this is not a big deal unless you put them side by side and do closer inspection. How about noob V7?. Since Noob are replicating newest production, the crown logo hole will be bigger, the "f" on ft is longer, the "0" is round instead of oval, and the "SUBMARINER" font is different compare to old dial model. Overall, both VRF and Noob V7 are very good on replicating dial details and very close to what are they replicating to.

  • If you see it carefully, both VRF and noob date window is different compare to genuine. The frame on genuine date window is very sharp, and the corner is straight not curvy as you can see on both replica. 
  • The font style on both replica is correct compare to genuine. However, date font on VRF is slightly thicker while noob have better thickness on date font.

LEC on both replica is existed. Not easily spotted as it should be like that. You need to have good angle with good light source to get it visible. How about the lume? I have nothing to say on this part, both replica are good on making this part as you can see on below picture :

Rehaut is always be flaws on any replica. There is none of replica have perfect rehaut engravings as genuine. VRF is slightly better on this part, you can see the crown logo on VRF is very clear and neat. But still, this part considered as one of the flaw on replica.

 

 

SEL, BRACELET & CLASP

  • As everybody know that besides all noob dial perfections, sel is always be Noob weakness. It is not 100% fit to the lug end, always be a gap, while VRF made have better sel fitment.
  • If you look at it carefully, the gap between endlink and first bracelet link on noob is wider compare to VRF. 
  • As far as I feel when i hold the bracelet, VRF have better feeling, more solid compare to what noob have.

You can see on clasp logo, no need to explain more, VRF is closer to genuine on this part.

 

 

DIMENSION AND WEIGHT

  • VRF and Noob V7 have 13 mm thickness from crystal to the caseback. Its not a big deal, since genuine is about 12.8mm
  • Genuine weight is 155 grams, VRF is 152 grams and Noob is about 141 grams. VRF is closer.

 

 

MOVEMENT

It's a huge different on this part. Noob have better look movement compare to VRF, they are mastering on this part since they use SA.3135 movement. This is what VRF different from other. I have to say this movement part is some unfortunate. They use A.2836 based movement with NONE of 3135 decoration, while noob made closer movement to genuine 3135 with their SA.3135. However I  believe they have good reasons why they choose this movement instead :

  • A.2836 movement existed in the market since the beginning of movement replication in China. Known as very stable and accurate movement working with 28800vph. This is probably the reason why VRF use this movement instead of SA.3135 which known as super clone movement but there are some stability issue on some production batch. 
  • The movement is not displayed, I believe VRF leave it non decorated just because it is hidden behind the caseback anyway. Not a big deal.
  • When you have issue with your movement, A.2836 parts is there in the market easily, very interchangeable with any ETA movement available.
  • The crown setting feel is way better on 2836 movement. When you unscrew the crown, you will feel solid click that the crown is unlock to winding positon. When you want to set the date and time, you will feel very easy to get the crown position, it is just pop up nicely. You don't need to try to find the right wheel to set the date and time as SA.3135 have those kind of issue.

 

 

VRF OVERVIEW

Here are some bezel and dial pictures of VRF from different angle :

 

 

CONCLUSION

  • Overall for physical perfection, VRF is better than Noob V7 especially on green bezel color.
  • Noob V7 still win on the movement, because they use SA.3135 super clone.

 

Hope this blog will help you to decide which "Hulk" you have to get. It is really depend on which perfection that you looking for. Keep in mind, there is no 100% replica, there will still be flaws as the price always tell something.

 

GRAB THIS PERFECT HULK IN OUR SITE HERE

 

 



by DTIME International on 05 December 2017

Hi guys, welcome back to our blog section....

Speaking about Rolex Submariner, a lot of confusions going on replica industry because many major factories are keeping up to build the same model with different point of perfection. Noob factory is definetely on the top list so far with V7 build, but last month there is new factory come up with some good start of making some rolex models, named AR Factory (ARF). Some folks said that this is actually JF with another branding name, but i don't want to talk about it now.

There are line up made by ARF : Daytona, Datejust 36mm, Sea-Dweller and Submariner. I wrote my review before on their daytona model with good result of judgement. But now after long research, i finally dare to speak about how their Submariner 116610LN build compare to other factories. Let's start....

 

CASE, DIAL, AND BEZEL

Let's talk about overall view of the case, dial and bezel :

  • The whole build of the case and bezel are very nice. Perfecly shiny and states a solid looks of the build.
  • It is very clear that ARF took the sample of 2010-2015 submariner model. You can see the "M" on submariner is thinner, the "f" on ft is short, and the "0" is oval instead of round. These aren't flaws, because they replicated the sub from 2015 productions or before. 
  • Overall ceramic finised is very nice, also the bezel markers are perfecly nice.
  • The teeth are nicely done with a good brushing pattern.
  • Crown as good as what noob have. No issue
  • Overall dial finished? I still keep noob v7 dial details as the winner compare to this one.

 

Speaking about dial, I tried to take a closer looks. Here are some points to consider

  • As i mention before, ARF replicating 116610LN 2010-2015 submariner model. You can see the "M" on submariner is thinner, the "f" on ft is short, and the "0" is oval instead of round. These aren't flaws, because they replicated the sub from 2015 productions or before. On the other side, noob V7 are replicating 2016-2017 production of submariner.
  • I don't have so much issue on the printing, the font style are the same, with good and neat printing. But still i will say noob is better on this part, no doubt.
  • LEC is the same with noob, you can see it on specific angle on crystal near 6 o'clock position
  • Crystal height is perfect, no issue
  • Lume have no issue, perfectly the same with genuine.

 

  • I will say that ceramic bezel is very nice, perfect shine as how it should be on genuine. 
  • Bezel markers are perfectly made, not too wide, nice depth, and correct silver color. For some reason i love this ARF on this side compare to what noob have done.
  • Pearl is there in a perfect shape and position, it is just correct as it should be on genuine.

 

  • Cyclops pretty much the same with what noob have. But i think ARF produce more clear view on the cyclops compare to noob
  • Date font style are correct as genuine, thickness is right, but need to be more neat. There is a flaw i believe, but hard to spot until you put this head to head with genuine.

 

SEL & BRACELET

This part is probably what makes ARF being the best build on submariner model compare to other factories. Noob is good on dial details, however they are not good on bracelet and sel perfections, always be a flaws. But with ARF, the sel is perfectly fit with no gap at all, you will feel it solid when you shake or wear it. See the sel fitment on below pictures :

I will say that ARF bracelet and sel is the best among other submariner build available in the market. Very solid feel, and there is no gap issue between those link. Those are just perfect and solid.

 

CASEBACK & MOVEMENT

This is what ARF different from other. I have to say this movement part is some unfortunate. They use A.2824 based movement with lack of 3135 decoration, while noob and JF are keeping up to make closer movement to genuine 3135 with their SA.3135 and SH.3135. However I  believe they have good reasons why they choose this movement instead :

  • A.2824 movement existed in the market since the beginning of movement replication in China. Known as very stable and accurate movement working with 28800vph. This is probably the reason why ARF use this movement instead of SA.3135 which known as super clone movement but there are some stability issue on some production batch. 
  • The movement is not displayed, I believe ARF leave it non decorated just because it is hidden behind the caseback anyway. Not a big deal.
  • When you have issue with your movement, A.2824 parts is there in the market easily, very interchangeable with any ETA movement available.

 

DIMENSION, WEIGHT & THICKNESS

I don't think there is major different on dimension, thickness and weight compare to genuine :

  • Case diameter 40.5mm same with genuine
  • Thickness of ARF made is thinner compare to noob. Noob 13mm, ARF 12.5mm. Genuine is about 12.7mm to 12.8mm. You can judge on this one.
  • Weight is very close to genuine 155grams.

 

CONCLUSION

  • If you looking for the best material and solid build especially on bracelet, we recommend you to get this model made by AR factory (ARF)
  • If you looking for closer looks on movement, you must choose the one made by NOOB factory. Now they are on V7 version after some development since the beginning of time they're making this model.
  • Read Rolex replica guide HERE

 

CUSTOMER FEEDBACK

 

BUY THIS PERFECT REPLICA BY ARF HERE



by DTIME International on 23 November 2017

Hi guys, welcome back to our blog section....

As we know, there are so many factory around replica industry in China. Those are very confusing for some people, we oftenly handle basic questions about who is the best factory making replica. Especially for you who are newly come to replica world, ended up with confusion to choose what is the best one. We try to reveal some facts to guide you to choose the best replica before you decide to buy. Please keep in mind, there is no 100% replica for any reasons, we are talking the best among the market, based on our experience dealing with replica industry, also based on our customer's feedback from what they bought from us.

This is not fix or formal rule, however these are something that you can consider as a guide before you buy something. We have no time to inspect all brands available, however, I will try to take top 10 brands include some recommended models of each brands. 

Before we go further, we must tell you that there is rule of thumb on replica industry :

  • The more complex features on genuine, the more flaws would be on replica
  • The safest way to choose the color on replica is black or white. Any other colorful dial or bezel will have some flaws on coloring, ended up with slight color different. 
  • There is no FULL GOLD on replica. The best real gold on replica are made by Noob factory with THICK WRAPPED gold (roughly 30microns), while the rest is only thin plated
  • Stainless steel material on replica mostly better compare to other material.

But again, at the end you can choose anything out of the rules, as simple as accept some flaws on them. Let's start......

 

 

This most probably the most demandable brand on replica industry. Everybody talking about Rolex and Rolex all the time. Basic question "I love Rolex, and i want to buy good replica, which models i have to choose? and from what factory?". Here are some recommedation from us :

SUBMARINER 116610

This model is the most high flying model among all Rolex models on replica. In fact, there are some major factories making this model and compete each other. So what is our recommendations?

  • If you looking for the best material and solid build especially on bracelet, we recommend you to get this model made by AR factory (ARF). Click HERE to see the model.

(+) 

  • The bracelet is perfectly solid, there is no significant gap causing "cheap" looks and feel on the bracelet
  • Sel fitment is the best so far, there is no gap on the lug end part, while noob factory still have on some production
  • Very reliable and accurate movement (A.2824)
  • Material finished is very nice

(-)

  • This is not the best dial on submariner replica, Noob still win on this one
  • The movement still using A.2824 no decoration, while Noob factory produce super clone movement with very close looks compare to genuine. 
  • If you looking for closer looks on movement, you must choose the one made by NOOB factory. Now they are on V7 version after some development since the beginning of time they're making this model. There are 2 choices of the movement, both are very close to genuine but have huge different :
  • A.2836 based movement. This is very recommended for you who want to have stable and reliable movement. The looks is good, but there are differences on crown setting direction while you set the time and date. This movement is the opposite crown setting of genuine. See this model HERE
  • SA.3135 super clone movement. This movement were made from scratch to copy Rolex calibre 3135 movement. There is no based movement for this, means the factory build this movement from scratch. Besides a perfect looks, you must aware that this movement is not as stable as 2836 movement. Even noob has made correction to gain more reliability, but we will say 2836 still more reliable. The crown setting direction is perfectly the same wiht genuine. See this model HERE

(+) 

  • Perfect finishing on the material and dial details
  • Same crown setting as genuine (SA.3135)
  • Movement very close to genuine looks (SA.3135)
  • Very reliable movement (A.2836)

(-)

  • Not the best bracelet compare to ARF, especially on sel fitment to lug end
  • Movement not very reliable on SA.3135, and parts not interchangeable with asian ETA movement.

 

SUBMARINER 116613

This is another good submariner series to have on replica. For you two tone lovers, this is the best combo you can have. There are 2 major factories made this replica ; Noob and JF. Both have each strenght and weaknesses. It is depend on what is your requirement. 

  • If you looking for REAL GOLD on replica, we recommend you to get the one from NOOB factory V7. The mid gold is using real yellow gold material with very thick wrapped (approximately 30 microns thick). Click HERE if you want to see these model

(+) 

  • Real gold material on the middle part of the bracelet link
  • Super thick gold wrapped, roughly 30 micron, while other factory only <10 micron plated
  • Very reliable and accurate movement with A.2836 decorated to calibre 3135
  • Perfect bezel and dial details

(-)

  • There is no SA.3135 movement option for these series. Means the crown setting is the opposite way of genuine
  • Price is expensive
  • If you looking for closer looks on movement, you must choose the one made by J factory (JF). They armed these model with new Shanghai movement (SH.3135) which is better looks compare to SA.3135 and way more reliable. You can see these models HERE
  • Perfect finishing on the material and dial details
  • Same crown setting as genuine with Shanghai movement SH.3135
  • Movement very close to genuine with SH.3135 movement. Better looks than SA.3135
  • Better reliablility compare to SA.3135 movement
  • Price is reasonable

(-)

  • The gold is only thin plated, most probably less than 10 microns, while Noob produce wrapped thick gold with 30 micron

SUBMARINER 16610

Pre ceramic model is quite demandable in the market, however since not many factory build this replica, seems hard to get the best replica of these models. Until JF released 16610 models (black and green bezel) with new Shanghai movement SH.3135 super clone. If you looking for the best 16610 replica, you have no other options, you must go for J Factory (JF). There are some perfection and flaws that I can mention for these models. However, i have to say that what JF made is the best 16610 in the market. You can see these models HERE

(+) 

  • Perfect bezel, case, and bracelet compare to other factory on this models
  • The movement is very close looks to genuine with SH.3135
  • Reliable movement compare to other super clone movement
  • Perfect dial details

(-)

  • JF replicating M series with engraved rehaut, which quite rare in the market. People usually think that is a big flaws, in fact it is not.
  • Date font is slightly thicker compare to gen, also the font style is not exactly the same
  •  Movement parts is not interchangeable with asian ETA movement

SUBMARINER 114060 (NO DATE)

This is the most flawless submariner actually in the market, because there is no date. Date version (116610) always have date and cyclop slight different compare to gen. If you looking for the best submariner replica, you have to choose the one from J factory (JF). Armed with Shanghai SH3130 movement, it is superclone without empty crown setting gap as Noob have. When you do setting, there should be only 3 crown postion : 1st is locked position, 2nd is winding / loose postion, 3rd is hour setting. There is no gap for date setting. You can see the model HERE

(+) 

  • Perfect bezel, case, and bracelet compare to other factory on this models
  • Movement very close looks to genuine calibre 3130.
  • Crown setting exactly the same with genuine
  • Reliable movement compare to other super clone movement
  • Perfect dial details
  • Flawless face without date

(-)

  •  Movement parts is not interchangeable with asian ETA movement

 

GMT MASTER II (CERAMIC BEZEL)

Noob always leading on this model since the beginning of repliaction of this model. However there was a big flaws of wrong correct handstack and different way of setting the date and GMT hands. Finally noob make a huge correction on this part by releasing new version (V7) by doing modification on 2836 movement based become exactly the same like Calibre 3186. If you looking for the best GMT Master II, you must get the one from NOOB factory. Especially the one with black bezel is 100% perfect compare to BLNR (blue black a.k.a batman). You can see these models HERE

(+) 

  • GMT hand in correct position (correct hand stack), while the previous version is wrong
  • GMT hand setting exactly like genuie
  • Date setting exactly like genuine
  • Better movement stability and interchangeable parts with asian ETA 2836

(-)

  • No correction on Blue black (BLNR) bezel, still same little flaws as previous version. Choose black will be better perfection

 

DAYTONA 116500 / 116515 / 116518 / 116520

After noob and JF rules the market on Daytona series, finally another factory called ARF suddenly popped up with extra ordinary move. If you looking for the best Rolex Daytona replica, you have to choose the one from AR Factory (ARF). Armed with 904L stainless steel based, ARF also made perfect details on dial perspective. The case is very thin compare to other factory. You can see 116500 model from ARF HERE, 116515 model HERE, 116518 model HERE, and 116520 model HERE.

(+) 

  • Perfect dial, bezel, and subdial detail compare to other factory
  • Movement very close looks to genuine calibre 4130
  • 904L stainless steel material based, just like genuine.
  • Reliable movement
  • Very thin case close to genuine. Other factory have thick case.

(-)

  • Chronograph not functioning 100%. Only stopwatch and second sub dial. The rest remain fix. This is the only option for the factory to make the case thin.

 

EXPLORER  I 214270 (NO DATE)

This is the most flawless explorer I series in the market. If you looking for the best Explorer I replica, you have to choose the one from J factory (JF). Armed with Shanghai SH3132 movement, it is superclone without empty crown setting gap as Noob have. When you do setting, there should be only 3 crown postion : 1st is locked position, 2nd is winding / loose postion, 3rd is hour setting. There is no gap for date setting. You can see the model HERE

(+) 

  • Perfect dial, case, and bracelet compare to other factory on this models
  • Movement very close looks to genuine calibre 3132
  • Crown setting exactly the same with genuine
  • Reliable movement compare to other super clone movement
  • Perfect dial details
  • Flawless face without date

(-)

  •  Movement parts is not interchangeable with asian ETA movement

EXPLORER II 216570 (GMT)

Noob always leading on this model since the beginning of repliaction of this model. However there was a big flaws of wrong correct handstack and different way of setting the date and GMT hands. Finally noob make a huge correction on this part by releasing new version (V7) by doing modification on 2836 movement based become exactly the same like Calibre 3187. If you looking for the best Rolex Explorer II, you must get the one from NOOB factory. Especially the one with white dial. You can see these models HERE

(+) 

  • GMT hand in correct position (correct hand stack), while the previous version is wrong
  • GMT hand setting exactly like genuie
  • Date setting exactly like genuine
  • Better movement stability and interchangeable parts with asian ETA 2836
  • Better brushed on bezel compare to previous version

(-)

  • Cyclops slightly different from genuine

DATEJUST 41MM 116334 / 126331 / 126301 /126333

There are only 2 factory mastering on these models, Noob and EW. If you looking for the best Datejust 41mm replica, you have to choose the one from Noob Factory. Well build, super clone SA3255 movement, and wrapped with thick gold on some two tone model. You can see 116334 model from Noob HERE, 126331 model HERE, 126301 model HERE, and 126333 model HERE.

(+) 

  • Perfect dial, bezel, and subdial detail compare to other factory
  • Movement very close looks to genuine calibre 3255 (super clone)
  • real wrapped gold with 30 micron thickness on some two tone models

(-)

  • Movement part is not interchangeable with other basic movement like asian ETA movement

DATEJUST 36MM 116234

Again, ARF now leading the market on this model. If you looking for the best Datejust 36mm, you must get the one from AR factory (ARF). You can see these model HERE

(+) 

  • 904 L stainless steel material, exactly like genuine
  • Perfect dial, bezel, and subdial detail compare to other factory
  • Movement looks is very close to genuine calibre 3135
  • Very solid bracelet, most probably the best bracelet build on replica

(-)

  • Movement part is not interchangeable with other basic movement like asian ETA movement

DAYDATE 40MM 228238 / 228235 / 228239 / 228206

There are only 2 factory mastering on these models, Noob and EW. If you looking for the best Daydate 40mm replica, you have to choose the one from Noob Factory. Well build, even the movement is not super clone, and the gold is not thick wrapped. I will say noob made is the best among the market. You can see 228238 model from Noob HERE, 228235 model HERE, 228239 model HERE, and 228206 model HERE.

(+) 

  • Well build, exact size and thickness
  • Very reliable movement with A.2836 modified to 3255 movement
  • Movement part is interchangeable with other basic movement like asian ETA movement

(-)

  • Only thin gold plated, not thick gold wrapped
  • Oftenly day part is not center, seller need to pick the best out of all.

 

SEA-DWELLER DEEPSEA 116660

This model is the second high flying model among all Rolex models on replica after Submariner. So what is our recommendations? If you looking for closer looks on movement, you must choose the one made by NOOB factory. Now they are on V7 version after some development since the beginning of time they're making this model. There are 2 choices of the movement, both are very close to genuine but have huge different :

  • A.2836 based movement. This is very recommended for you who want to have stable and reliable movement. The looks is good, but there are differences on crown setting direction while you set the time and date. This movement is the opposite crown setting of genuine. See this model HERE
  • SA.3135 super clone movement. This movement were made from scratch to copy Rolex calibre 3135 movement. There is no based movement for this, means the factory build this movement from scratch. Besides a perfect looks, you must aware that this movement is not as stable as 2836 movement. Even noob has made correction to gain more reliability, but we will say 2836 still more reliable. The crown setting direction is perfectly the same wiht genuine. See this model HERE

(+) 

  • Perfect finishing on the material and dial details
  • Same crown setting as genuine (SA.3135)
  • Movement very close to genuine looks (SA.3135)
  • Very reliable movement (A.2836)

(-)

  • Movement not very reliable on SA.3135, and parts not interchangeable with asian ETA movement.

 

SEA-DWELLER 4000 116600

This model is not demandable model compare to Submariner, Deepsea, or daytona models. Hoewever, If you looking for closer looks on movement, you must choose the one made by NOOB factory. Now they are on V2 version after some development since the beginning of time they're making this model. There are 2 choices of the movement, both are very close to genuine but have huge different :

  • A.2836 based movement. This is very recommended for you who want to have stable and reliable movement. The looks is good, but there are differences on crown setting direction while you set the time and date. This movement is the opposite crown setting of genuine. See this model HERE
  • SA.3135 super clone movement. This movement were made from scratch to copy Rolex calibre 3135 movement. There is no based movement for this, means the factory build this movement from scratch. Besides a perfect looks, you must aware that this movement is not as stable as 2836 movement. Even noob has made correction to gain more reliability, but we will say 2836 still more reliable. The crown setting direction is perfectly the same wiht genuine. See this model HERE

(+) 

  • Perfect finishing on the material and dial details
  • Same crown setting as genuine (SA.3135)
  • Movement very close to genuine looks (SA.3135)
  • Very reliable movement (A.2836)

(-)

  • Movement not very reliable on SA.3135, and parts not interchangeable with asian ETA movement.

 

SEA-DWELLER 126600 50TH ANNIVERSARY

Again, ARF now leading the market on this model. If you looking for the best Sea-Dweller 50 anniversary, you must get the one from AR factory (ARF). You can see these model HERE

(+) 

  • 904 L stainless steel material, exactly like genuine
  • Perfect dial, bezel, and subdial detail compare to other factory
  • Movement looks is very close to genuine calibre 3135
  • Very solid bracelet, most probably the best bracelet build on replica
  • Correct clasp stamp compare to noob

(-)

  • Movement part is not interchangeable with other basic movement like asian ETA movement

YACHT-MASTER I 116623 / 116622 / 116621 /116655

J factory and Noob factory are competing on these models. They both very close on making Yacht master model So what is our recommendations? Before i give some recommendation, please note that these models have 2 movement options. both are very close to genuine but have huge different :

  • A.2836 based movement. This is very recommended for you who want to have stable and reliable movement. The looks is good, but there are differences on crown setting direction while you set the time and date. This movement is the opposite crown setting of genuine. 
  • SA.3135 super clone movement. This movement were made from scratch to copy Rolex calibre 3135 movement. There is no based movement for this, means the factory build this movement from scratch. Besides a perfect looks, you must aware that this movement is not as stable as 2836 movement. Even noob has made correction to gain more reliability, but we will say 2836 still more reliable. The crown setting direction is perfectly the same wiht genuine.  
  • 116623, we recommend you to choose from J Factory (JF). Even only gold plated, but its very nice build compare to other factory available. See this model HERE
  • 116622, we recommend you to choose from J Factory (JF). Well build with perfections. See this model HERE
  • 116621, we recommend you to choose from J Factory (JF). Well build with perfections, also armed with SA.3135 movement. See this model HERE
  • 116655, we recommend you to choose from Noob Factory. Well build with perfections, you can choose the movement as we explain above. Noob slightly better compare to JF on this model. See this model HERE

 

YACTH MASTER II 

Only J factory build these models. If you looking for the best Yacht Master II, you have no other choice now, only from JF. You can see these model HERE

(+) 

  • Perfect dial, bezel, and case details
  • Very solid bracelet finished
  • Very stable movement with modified Asian 7750

(-)

  • Yacthing timer not working, only stop watch working. This feature will never be replicated with existing movement in the market 

 

So how about ROLEX VINTAGE WATCHES? We have to tell you the truth that all vintage rolex made by any factory available in the market now, ARE NOT RECOMMENDED. When it comes to vintage watches, it will need extra modification, or even mix some parts with genuine. We call them franken watches. See some sample HERE

We hope this topic will help you to choose the best Rolex replica among existed in the market. We do this based on our research and some customer feedback. 

 

KEEP FOLLOWING THIS TOPIC, WE WILL GO FOR THE NEXT BRANDS AFTER ROLEX...



by DTIME International on 12 July 2017

Hi guys, welcome back to our blog section.

After long gone from the market, finally Noob release the newest version of a very demandable Omega replica in the market : Seamaster Planet Ocean 222.30.42.20.01.001 600m Liquid Metal 1948. This build really perfect since V3 was come out couple months ago. However, noob keep developing this model, even with little correction, the V4 is even better compare to previous version.

I will give you the major different between those 2 version of that model from Noob factory. In fact, the correction is only on some parts, most probably you can't tell anything without deep inspection on these 2 version. Here they are :

As i said, if you don't see it carefully, you won't tell anything. But when you see the hour marker on the dial, you will see that Noob actually correcting the length and wide of the marker. V4 have more narrow marker compare to V3, which is that is how genuine looks like. 

This is another minor correction on the crown Omega logo. Previously the logo is too fat, and now better and closer to genuine crown logo. 

I believe you won't notice this one. The seconds hand on V3 is a little bit shorter compare to V4. You can see yellow line above, V3 is slightly longer and slightly overlapping the seconds marker on the dial.

I can say this is probably one significant correction from noob :

  • V4 have deeper engravings on the caseback details compare to V3
  • The sea horse logo on V3 is too flat look, while on V4 is more like genuine (a bit concav)
  • V3 have fat Omega logo below the sea horse, V4 is thinner (better)
  • The sea horse size is smaller on V4 which is very good and closer to genuine

Besides, on V3 there are some production batch with no "ZrO2" below the logo on the dial, while on V4 all production batch are with "ZrO2" logo on the dial. Movement wise, both version still using the same movement which is A.2824 movement, and all other details i can say there is no upgrades.

With the same price, V4 is very worthy and recommended for sure. However, the orange of upper second hands still the same, they should change to red, but still not change. 

GRAB THIS PERFECT CORRECTION VERSION HERE



by DTIME International on 14 May 2017

Hi guys, welcome back to our blog section...

Recently Z factory just launched the newest build of Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 5015-1130-52 with some correction (they claims) compare to the previous build from Noob factory. As we know, that this model was build firstly by Noob factory and rules the market for some years. One question raised suddenly from replica folks, is ZF build better?  Let's have a look.

I try to compare ZF build with genine, and some parts i also compare with noob build of this model.

Pretty much no issue on the front side, The dial, the marker, and all those details are replicated perfectly by ZF. On this part, Noob was also great and perfect. The only flaws i noticed is the date font style and thickness is different compare from gen. Noob also have the same issue, but slightly better on the thickness. Let's see deeper on the bezel details, because this is very important parts.

Bezel widht is correct, and all markers are well replicated by Z factory. The size is correct, the material is correct, the color is correct, and pretty neat. There is no rough things on the marker. The dommed bezle is very nicely replicated by Z Factory. Lets see another part of the bezel

No issue at all, all good, the numbers are well replicated, the size and font style is 100% match with genuine as you can see on above picture. Now I will start looking at the other side of the case.

Crown logo is perfect, and the crown outter gear is nicely done. The shape, the finish, the textures, all nice, without anything sharp on every single edge of the crown gear.

Here we go. This best parts of correction from Z factory. The engravings are way better compare to Noob factory made. Clearer, and neater. 

And when you see the red arrow above, you will see that the shape of curve are different between noob and Z factory. The curve on ZF is correct, which is placed in the middle, while on Noob is way to low, therefore the curve shape is different on Noob. As you can see, when you compare it to genuine, ZF made is better and closer to genuine. Above pictures will also tell you that noob made "Blancpain" engravings is very rough, not as neat as Z factory meade.  

Back case is very nice, the details are perfect, the engravings on the caseback are very deep and neat. Just like genuine, Z factory put second layer of movement cover, so when you open the case, you will need to open antoher layer before you can see the movement.

As noob previously made, ZF also use A.2836 as the movement base to install on this model. Both ZF and Noob have minimum decoration, and without Blancpain engraves on the rotor. But this is very acceptable since the case is not displayed.

Nothing to say on this part, ZF made the clasp details perfectly just like genuine. 

The most beautiful part of this piece is on the lume part, green lume on the dial marker, hands, and include bezel marker. Extra ordinary beautiful. Both ZF and noob is perfect making this part replicated.

Bottom line, Z factory is really make some correction, especially on the case details. With slightly higher price compare to noob, it is very worthy to have Z factory build.

GRAB THIS PERFECT REPLICA HERE



by DTIME International on 16 April 2017

Hi guys,

After a few months being Yacht-Master best seller among other Yacht-Master models, it come across to my mind to make comparison between 2 factories making this models. As we know noob just launched this Rolex Yacht-Master 116655 Everose gold following J factory that has been around in the market for a while. With same movement option ; A.2836 and SA.3135 make a confusing result to the customers, because they have to choose which one is closer to genuine : JF with A.2846, JF with SA.3135, Noob with A.2836, or Noob with SA.3135. There are little information regarding which one is the closest to genuine.

Here I am trying to make a fair comparitson between these two factories :

NO.1 : THE FACE

Both noob and JF on the dial, marker, hands, logo, lettering, the 3D bezel, the material, are all the same. I can't spot any differences on this part between those 2 factories. I will give a score on this part, NOOB : JF ==> 1 : 1

 

NO.2 : THE BEZEL

I am not going to talk about the bar code here, because this barcode will gone once you take of the wrapped plastic. Look at the red circle above, and start compare between 3 pictures. The gap between bezel teeth on noob is to wide comparet to JF, even i still see JF making a bigger gap compare to genuine, but i will say JF made is better on this part. So the sore is, NOOB : JF ==> 0 : 1

 

NO.3 : THE CROWN

This the only spottable difference between noob and JF made on this model. You can see number 1 is telling how different the the 3 circle below the crown logo. At this part, noob was made it closer to genuine, while the middle circle is bigger compare to the other two. And the number 2 is pretty much not spottable, when the JF crown is little bit too fat compare to noob and genuine. I ll put the score in this part, NOOB : JF ==> 2 : 0

 

NO. 4 : THE BUCKLE

  • Look at number 1 on above picture. This is the part that i compare between noob, JF and genuine. I can see that the size of the curve (clasp opener space) on JF is wider compare to noob, and this is very close to the genuine. The edge of the curve is touching the edge of the middle polished buckle part. This is not happen on Noob, they make it smaller and the edge of is not touching the middle part edge.
  • Number 2 : the crown logo on JF is closer to genuine compare to noob. Eventhough the circle at the bottom of the crown are smaller on JF and Noob, but JF make the crown hands better compare to noob, you can see the crown hands on JF is closer to the bottom circle, while Noob is a bit far.
  • Number 3 : JF make the firs link attached to the rubber shorter compare to noob. In fact, noob is closer to genuine on this part.

So the score, NOOB : JF ==> 1 : 2

 

NO.5 : THE CASEBACK

All teh engravings details are the same between these two factory. The only different is the inner circle of the caseback size. Noob make it bigger compare to JF, and i think it is close enough to the gen. So i the score, NOOB : JF ==> 1 : 0

CONLUSION

  • Total score, NOOB : JF ==> 5:4. Which mean from parts that i inspected (5 parts), I will say noob still win even the score is very tight. This is not absolute result if you can make other parts comparison. I only make the major part to compare based on my observation on research. 
  • You will get 2 movement options from these factories, Asian 2836, and Super Asian 3135. You can read the review of these movement HERE

GRAB THIS PERFECT REPLICA HERE



by DTIME International on 10 April 2017

Hi Guys,

Welcome back to our blog section. After long waiting, finally this Omega model come close to perfection!. March 2017 one of the new factory called OM Factory just released this Omega Planet Ocean 215.32.46.51.01.001 with one revolutionary features compare the previous factory JH factory, which is the stopwatch minute and hour counter are working independently while JH didn't have. The movement based are both the same, Asian 7750 chronograph 28,800 vph, but OM just made a perfect modification to make both hands on sub dial working independently as it supposed to be. 

Since OM factory are quite new, or maybe they have been around sometimes i don't know, but it is my curiousity to make head to head comparison between these two factories. Let's take a look and see which one is better or even the best.

Red square is the part that i pointed out. Which as far as I can see, JH factory is better on painting this part on this model. You can see OM factory made this painting a bit rough compare to JHF. I will not going to talk more about the rest of the dial parts, because both seem very identical to me.

There are some points to talk about above pictures :

  • The crown finish on OM factory is brushed, while on JH factory is polished. On this part, OM factory is win, since the gen as far as I know is 100% brush finished. 
  • The caseback edge and thickness. I am not talking the total thickness between those two, but the caseback shape on both factory are different. You can see the edge are clearly seen on the JF factory made, while OM factory is more curvy. Which one is close to gen? You can judge from this genuine picture :

I think OM factory slightly better on case part, especially the brushed finished is better. Now lets take a look to the main part that make a huge different between these 2 factories, the stopwatch minute and hour counter.

As you know with Calibre 9900 omega have ability to make both stopwatch minute counter and hour counter independently working in one sub dial. But this wasn't an easy thing to be replicated with Asian 7750. If you can see the JH factory have 2 hands appart and can not be align together, both will move as stopwatch minute counter. This is a big flaw, therefore OM factory made a good breakthru by making this working as genuine supposed to be. On the left picture, you can see both hands are align together and will move independently as minute and hour stopwatch counter. 

To make it clear, i will show you the video of OM factory.

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How about the movement decoration? let's see :

I can't see major different on movement decoration except some bold vs thin letter. It is not a big thing, but i will say JH is a little bit better on the deco. But there are some parts that OM factory slightly better compare to JH factory :

  • The lug is brushed finish at the back side on OMF, while JHF is polished. Again, brushed is the correct one compare to gen
  • Serial number are there on the back side of the lug, but on JHF there is no "Stainless Steel" words as in OM factory. It should be there.

So which one is better for this model? Well, plus minus. But the movement revolution on OM factory will cover all the small flaws they made. 

GRAB THIS PERFECT VERSION HERE



by DTIME International on 03 December 2016

Hi guys, 

After i did movement perspective review before, Now i want to make comparison between my new GMT Master BLNR Noob V7 super clone SA.3186, and my previous BLNR Noob V5 with A.2836 modified to close to Cal 3186. I ve lost my bracelet on my V5, so I put custom strap on my v5. When i look at it, pretty much there is no significant different on the case and dial physically, even on the movement look, there is no big different. But, there is huge different on the other part. Let's take a look.

THE FACE 



I can see that noob didn't do any upgrade on the dial, there is pretty much the same between V5 and V7. Font, datewheel, dial color, and bezel. Still the same. The bezel blue color issue still there existed. Bezel marker I consider there is no different between those 2 version.


No different at all, as noob claimed on V7 sub rehaut is improving. But i dont think on GMT Master V7.


Rolex logo on crystal is there, but i feel like on the v5 is very easy to spot compare to V7.

V7 crystal is a little bit lower compare to V5, but it is not significant things. I dont know weather this crystal height is the same with genuine or not, please somebody tell me.

CORRECT HAND STACK 


This is probably one of the reason why i stated as HUGE different between V7 and V5. If you remember V5 GMT hands position is at the bottom of hour hand while the gen is above hour hands. Now with V7, noob made it perfect by doing correction on GMT hands position, now exactly like genuine, above the hour hands. 

THE MOVEMENT

As we know that V5 are using Asian 2836 modified to be close to 3186 calibre, and the V7 are using Super Asian 3186 which is built from scratch to be close to genuine calibre 3186. However, the looks is not significantly different between these 2 version, you can see it on below pictures :





Eventho the engraving on the movement is a little bit better on V7, but i can't spot any significant different on the looks between these two version. But, I still wondering why noob still give double red gear instead of single. 

CROWN SETTING
This is the biggest flaw on this previous GMT BLNR. The date setting is very different compare to genuine, also the GMT hands setting as the opposite of date setting. Noob has made this biggest flaws disappear, because now the way the crown setting works is exactly the same with genuine version. You can see on below video, i made a comparison between these two models :

 

 

How about the reliability? Hmmm i am not sure of this, due to the fact that the first super clone 3135 are having big issues in the beginning. Hopefully this one is not. Will see.

LUME 



No doubt, no issue, all good on this part, as usual noob did well.

BUY THIS PERFECT TIMEPIECE ONLY IN OUR WEBSITE HERE

 



by DTIME International on 30 September 2016

Hi Guys,

Welcome back to our blog. Today I will do review on one of modified watch made by one of expert on this area. This watch is : Audemars Piguet 25940SK Rubber Clad White Dial. This is not only modified, but also replace some replica parts with genuine after market parts to be closer to genuine version.

Before I go to my review, I just want to show you some regular flaws on factory made replica of Audemars Piguet ROO Chronograph. You will find pretty much the same issue on every models. Those are :

  • Cyclops is not magnifying exactly as genuine, therefore the font looks smaller compare to genuine
  • Datewheel edge color on replica is white, instead of Black on genuine
  • Font type and size is smaller on replica compare to genuine
  • Gap between datewheel and tachymeter ring is very tight on replica, while in genuine there is significant gap between
  • Bezel screw on replica is too flat on the edge. While the genuine on this model is rounded on screw edge. Also need be repolished to catch the shine of white gold on genuine
  • Hand pinion is too big on replica

Another major flaws is the thickness and crown position :

  • Crown position need to be lower, and the crown guard shape is a bit different.
  • The thickness of the back case is very noticable. Replica has thicker caseback compare to genuine. This is hard situation for factory, since this chronograph AP are using Asian 7750 which required thicker case. If not, the rotor will be stuck.

 

SO, WHAT IS THE SOLUTION ON THIS?

All watch smith and modder around the world are keep working on how to get the factory made replica become more closer to genuine. Usually there are 3 options to make it closer to genuine version :

  • LOW BUDGET MODIFICATION : Light modification on bezel screw, datewheel replaced to ETA DW, re-shave the tachymeter ring to make a little bit gap with datewheel.
  • MEDIUM BUDGET MODIFICATION : Do exactly like on the first point with adding some re-shaving on hand pinion, re-shaving on cyclops, and re-positioning the crown a little bit lower
  • HIGH BUDGET MODIFICATION / FRANKEN : The thickness is the only thing that can not be moddified. The solution is only by changing the movement with thinner movement. The options, is only with genuine movement, usually LWO 283. Also some parts like dial and tachymeter can be replaced with genuine. It is really depend on what you want.

 

WHAT IS THE RESULT ?

What watch smith did on this AP Rubber Clad are :

  • Gen dial and tachy ring.
  • LWO283 movement
  • Edge gen specs Datewheel
  • Gen specs hands (the pinion is not too big)
  • Double AR Crystal
  • Brand new Rubberclad Black Theme replica Noob factory
  • Rep case shaved to gen thickness and modded to gen specs  
  • Re-lume to make closer lume to genuine

You can compare this franken with genuine like picture below :

You can see above picture. Very clear that almost no issues or flaws on dial perspective. Below are some quality pictures of the franken we got right now :

How about the thickness?. Because we already change it with genuine LWO 283 movement, so the watch smith can do re-shaving on the caseback become thinner. You can compare with the replica factory made on below picture :

Besides the thickness, crown position is also need to move lower, also the crown guard after re-shaving, now very close to genuine. See actual picures from the side :

The only thing we do on caseback is make the engravings deeper, so it will look closer to genuine.

We provide you video on this franken :

 

WHAT ABOUT THE PRICE?

This is the best part of this review. Since some genuine parts are installed on this franken, the concequences is to the price. We need to pay so expansive to do this kind of project. we spend almost USD 4,000 for this. It is not cheap price, but when you look at the result, you will decide weather it is worthed or not. 

Below is genuine price :

USD 4000 VS USD 13,995. Is that worthed? You decide, our job is to give you more options of having a good replica.

GET THIS PERFECT FRANKEN PIECE ONLY IN OUR STORE

 



by DTIME International on 03 September 2016

Hi Guys,

Recently this Tudor Pelagos is being talked in every replica forums, there are pro's and con's especeially on the blue color, too bright compare to genuine. Yes it is, but it is different factory. The one brighter blue is comes from V6F/KW, and today Z Factory has been released the V2 of the same model (Tudor Pelagos 25600TB) with perfect blue color on dial and bezel compare to V6F. Is that really closer to genuine? let's have a look.

FACE / DIAL

Compare to V1 from ZF, the bezel and dial color on this new version is very nice and close to genuine, as you can see on above pictures, pretty much no different between ZF V2 vs Genuine. Mean while, the V6F/KW, the blue color is too bright. All the details is there, and perfectly closed. How about the lume? see below picture :

Blue color is correct, except the marker frame is not lumed perfectly. Overall this is a perfect replication on this side.

THE CASE

This replica is also made from Titanium material as the genuine is. I didn't spot any major issue on the titanium finishing, also the crown, no issue with size and logo engravings. all smooth and perfectly cloned.

CASEBACK & BRACELET

On this side, i spot some differences, especially on the engravings, as usual that engravings on caseback of replica mostly not as deep as genuine. As you can see the caseback engravings on genuine is very clear and deep. But i respect of the detail by putting perfect engravings on serial number and model number, well done. On the other side, the clasp engravings, is also another issue, while the genuine is very deep, the reps is not. But I can say, probably this is not the main focus of ZF, because this part is not gonna be showed while you wear this watch.

CONCLUSION

My final conclusion of this replica is SUPERB, I can't find any significant different especially on the face. All the different that I spot, is very minor. Besides, all the finishing of titanium is very nice and well neat. It is just perfect, and recommended for you to have this such superb replica from ZF v2.

BUY THIS PERFECT REPLICA HERE

 



by DTIME International on 01 September 2016

Welcome back to our blog. Today we will do short review to one of the most demandable watches from Tudor,  The Heritage Blackbay 79250BM Bronze.

Previously, we have this Tudor from Z Factory, and it was pretty close to genuine. But after awhile, V6F/KW has been release replica of the same model, and we noticed that V6F made is even closer to genuine.

If you read replica forums, lots of member keep asking which one the best one and the closest one to genuine. To make it sure, we provide genuine picture of this model as picture below :


We still have picture of this model from Z Factory, and now we try to combine the picture with V6F, and see what's the different between those two factories :

FACE / DIAL 


As we read some forums member review, finally we also spot some differences from the face of these two factories :

  • Bezel Insert width --> V6F/KW wider compare to ZF. And with this fact, V6F is closer to genuine compare to ZF.
  • Bezel Marker --> As far as we can see, V6F bezel font and marker is better fnished compare to ZF, very neat and close to genuine.
  • Dial Fonts --> This point is never mentioned on previous review, but based on my sight, there is well printed on V6f compare to ZF..

BEZEL & CASE 

  • What i can noticed on this parts is not about the crown engravings, i saw both V6F and ZF have same crown engravings. But the the bezel thickness i can see that V6F is thicker compare to ZF and V6f have correct crystal edge as per gen.
  • The bronze finished is different between those two factory, the V6F is more vintagized compare to ZF.
  • The lug on V6F is more rounded / curvy when you look at from side. And the lug hole on V6F is a little bit lower compare to ZF. This is actually closer to gen, because if you see the strap thickness, V6F is same with gen, thicker than ZF. Therefore need bigger space

THE STRAP

This part is very noticeable. The stitch color on V6F is correct to gen. Also the back side of the strap. But I can see that ZF strap is correct vintage, only wrong stitch color.

CASEBACK & BUCKLE

  • As the bronze finished is more vintagized on V6F, this also happen on the buckle, the V6F is more vintage.
  • I didnt see any major different on caseback. The only thing i see on the caseback color, the gen is seems more yellow (goldy), or probably gold plated. This is not happen on both factories.

This comparison is really based on my opinion, i can be wrong or right. If anyone have other opinion, please put a comments.

FIND THE FINEST TUDOR REPLICA ONLY IN OUR WEBSITE HERE
 



by DTIME International on 01 September 2016

Hi guys,

I've read some opinion and comment regarding the newest submariner 116610 Noob V7. The upgrade as claimed :

  • Updated ceramic bezel markers with the same depth and same platinum color.
  • Double AR cyclops with only slight blueish reflection as per genuine.
  • A special machine was purchased from Switzerland to engrave the rehaut and lugs exactly same as genuine - deep and double lined.
  • Round cut at the edge of the crystal and crystal only slightly sits above the bezel like genuine. It has the best bracelet in the replica history, perfect SEL and finish all over the links, perfect clasp with polished Rollie crown logo and every details are made according to the latest genuine SUB.
  • This watch comes with the SA3135 movement from Mr. Creme De La Creme, it is no longer a modified A2836 movement! When you add the improvements on the V7 from the V6s, and all of the improvements on the V6s from the 2014 SUB, this is still the best SUB on earth, bar none!


I don't want to go over compare between V7 and V6s (2014 model). I only want to go a little bit on the rehaut, the dial font and also the clasp Rolex stamp. Because there are some opinion and questions raised to compare both version to genuine.

Since I got confused what gen model are replicated, i do some light research to find some connection between reps and genuine models.

  • Gen Rolex sub 2016 model, you can find the detail HERE
  • Gen Rolex sub 2014 model, you can find the detail HERE


Lets go to the DIAL first.

What I know is the V6s is refer to gen 2014 model, which the main different on dial (compare to gen 2016) is the font. You can see below pictures :

The first V6s is refer to 2014 model, but later on, they improve the dial font closer to late 2015 & 2016 model, with longer "F" and correction on "M". 
The V7 is exactly copy the 2016 models, as you can see on above picture.

Now, move to the CLASP stamp.
Some of my friend a bit confused regarding the Rolex stamp on the clasp. The V7 is full polished with no brushing part and no black stamp, this is actually refer to the latest gen sub (2016). You can see the clasp stamp different on the gen as pic below :

The V6s and V7 is as the pic below :

You can see clearly the different on this part.

Now we go to the REHAUT
Some say that the V7 rehaut is very close to gen, as they claims that they bought special machine to engrave the rehaut. I tried to find some gen pictures to compare :

And below are the V6s and V7 rehaut :


The V7 rehaut above is the latest rehaut, previously still have "a bit rounded font" issue. But now they become closer. Even not as perfect as genuine (my opinion), but they do some improvement on this parts, while the V6s is still a bit rounded. 

I don't compare other upgrades on V7 to v6s, I think Noob is improving as their claims. My only question is how good the "upgraded" SA3135 movement on this V7. Noob no longer produced the V6s and on V7 there is no longer modified A2836. Only "upgraded" SA.3135.

Hope now there are no more issue on this SA.3135.

This thread is only my own opinion, might be wrong or right, but i am very open to anyone to comment and do corrections, also add something helping.

 

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by DTIME International on 27 July 2016

Hi guys,

Welcome to DTime International. As we know that Noob has been released the newest sub and dssd V7 with lots physical improvements, also they claims that the SA.3135 now become more reliable, no longer issue on broken stem or poor PR. I haven't test the v7, still on shipment process to me. 

Above table is some factories that using SA.3135 and 2836. Now the Noob V7 is also come with two option : "improved" SA.3135 (their claims), and also with A.2836 with $50 price different.

In fact, there are Pro's and Con's on SA.3135 vs A.2836 (cal 3135 look). Before V7 has been released, V6S with A.2836 is more preferable compare to SA.3135 due to the issues. Here I have some points to compare :

LOOKS
There is no doubt on the look, SA.3135 is very similar to genuine with all the detail, this is because SA.3135 was build from scratch, which not using Asian ETA parts such as 2836. 


FUNCTION
Please Note :

  • On Sub with modified A.2836, is Asian 2836 with modification to be closer to genuine Cal.3135 as shown on pics above. 
  • On Sub with SA.3135, is totally build from scratch to copy Calibre 3135

Function wise, there will be significant different especially on crown date and hour hands setting. SA.3135 is following the gen with clockwise setting, and A.2836 is the opposite. Other functions are the same, since this Sub have no chronograph, only date and hands.

PARTS INTERCHANGEABLILITY
This is one of weaknesses from SA.3135. Since it was built from scratch independently, you will have parts availability issue when something happen to this movement. Parts is hard to find and sometimes can not taken from other movement such as Asian 2836. Meanwhile, the A.2836 parts are very easy to find in the market, just because it was just regular movement and have been a while in the market. 

RELIABILITY
Hopefully this V7 is more reliable and less issue compare to V6s which have some issues on broken stem, also sometimes poor PR. A.2836 on the opposite is already establish and reliable since the begining.

CONCLUSION 

  • If you want the closest look and features to genuine sub, you must choose the one with SA.3135 (hope the v7 is more reliable compare to V6s)
  • If you want proven reliability, and cheaper price, you should go for sub with modified A.2836 movements.

It is just simply your taste and choices. 

FIND THE FINEST ROLEX REPLICA HERE



by DTIME International on 23 July 2016

Welcome back to our blog. There are facts that even the best replica factory couldn't make a perfect copy of Audemars Piguet Chronograph. Therefore lots of mooder has made some modification on some parts of the reps, to make it even closer compared to factory made.

There are some flaws on factory made Audemars Piguet Replica in general :

  • No Gap / Very small gap between datewheel and tachymeter ring. Genuine AP have a significant gap between those two.
  • The cyclops is not zooming as big as genuine. If you can spot the date on replica is more tiny compare to genuine. Other case also need to change the date font, because it is different from genuine
  • Bezel screw is flat with the bezel, while in geunine is a little bit sunken, and also curved, not flat.
  • Center hand pinion a bit bigger compare to genuine, especially for noob maker (On some JF is already perfect)
  • Thicker case on replica. This is because the movement size issue and there is nothing you can modified on this parts unless you change the movement to other thinner movement.

Lets talk about it one by one 

DATE WHEEL & TACHY RING GAP

You can see clearly on above picture :

  • There is supposed to be a significant gap between date wheel and tachy ring. While factory made can't make even small gap, and what modder do is re-shape the tachy ring to make a little gap between, closer to genuine.
  • Date size on factory made (in this case JF) replica is smaller compare to genuine. The problem can be from the cyclops zoom abiltity, therefore lots of modder doing re-shape the cyclops closer zoom ability compare to genuine. 
  • Date font is different. Even the cyclop has been re-shape, the date font still smaller compare to genuine. This is because the date font on factory made replica is actually smaller. That is why, lots of modder change the date wheel to ETA date wheel. 

BEZEL SCREW

If you can spot the bezel screw on above picture, you will find that on factory made replica is flat and same high with the bezel surface. It is supposed to be a little bit sunken and also the surface is a bit curved. AP modder usually re-shaped the bezel screw closer to genuine. Also re-polished the bezel screw to be more shiny. You can see on pictures below :

HAND PINION

Center hand pinion is too fat on some noob replica, but on JF i can say it is minor, some of them good already. All modder do is just re-shaped the pinion not too fat.

THICKNESS

This is the "franken" area, you can't not do anything except changing the movement to make the thickness is the same with genuina. All AP chronograph replica are using Asian 7750, this is required to be thicker, if not, the rotor will not gonna move. If you only want the modify your AP, there is no option for this parts. But if you want to make your AP become "franken", simply replace your Asian 7750 with genuinie movement, than modify the caseback. 

The ball is in your hands, which replica you want to buy. Some happy with factory made, some need more, it depends on your taste, fell, and also budget.

FIND MODDED AUDEMARS PIGUET REPLICA IN OUR WEBSITE HERE



by DTIME International on 30 June 2016

Hi guys,

Been happy with V5 for awhile, finally I got my new DSSD V6S from noob. Similar look, but when I look it deeper, there are some points that make this version even better. My first impression was "awesome". Here are some point that i wanna share, please someone add me something missed.



OVERALL :

V6s a bit more shiny look at the first sight, especially on the bracelet itself. I don't know why i feel better when i am holding V6s compare to v5, flexible bracelet, more solid, it is just very comfortable on my wrist.





Bezel engraved on V6s is a bit thinner and neater, also the color i guess is darker compare to v5.



"ORIGINAL GAS ESCAPE VALVE" color on V5 is fading while the V6s have better black color.



I guess the serial number on rehaut of v6s is better and easier to read.



Logo on V6s crystal is better compare to V5, easy to spot and very clear





I found no different between those two on : rolex stamp, caseback and lume. As you know noob always good on lume.

MOVEMENT & FUNCTION :

V5 using Asian 2836-2 and V6s is Asian Super Clone 3135. 

If you looking for the exact copy of cal 3135, V6s has to be your choice. However, i found on the forum that SA3135 has several issue like often poor power reserve and stem easily broken when stressed. 

Despite that issue, There is another different on hand setting :

  • V5 : Crown turns down (anti-clockwise) to make hands turning clockwise
  • V6s : Crown turns up (clockwise) to make hands turning clockwise

Gen = V6s

See Our Video Below :

This thread has been received an "Thread Of The Week" from RepGeek Forum HERE

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